Buying a 1930s House: What to Check

Many 1930s houses have early cavity walls, held together by metal wall ties. Over time, these ties can rust and expand.

Look for horizontal cracks in the mortar, repeating every few courses of brick. These can be a sign of wall tie failure, which a surveyor should check.

Bay windows are a feature of many 1930s homes. They sometimes have shallower foundations than the main house, and can move separately.

Look for cracks where the bay joins the main wall, inside and out. Ask whether any movement has been monitored or repaired.

• Pebbledash render can hide cracks, and is hard to repair invisibly. Look for patches that do not match.
• Original steel-framed windows may remain, or may have been replaced. Ask for the certificate for any replacement since 2002.
• Many original clay tile roofs have been replaced. Ask when, and whether any guarantee came with it.

Asbestos cement was widely used for garage roofs, sheds and gutters in the decades after the 1930s. Many 1930s homes gained these later.

Undamaged asbestos cement is usually low risk if left alone. Get it checked before you plan to remove or drill into it.

Many 1930s semis have been extended or had a loft converted. Ask for planning and building control paperwork for each. Buying a House With an Extension lists what to request.

A 1930s home has usually had its roof, windows, wiring and heating replaced at different times. A clear record of each job helps you budget for what has not been done.

A Propvio passport shows that history, with jobs confirmed by the tradesperson marked separately.